The Himalayas are the
huge mountain range stretching 3000km
east to west. The Nepal portion of the
Himalayas is the largest and highest,
stretching about 800km and includes
eight peaks that rise above 8000m
including Mt. Everest (known to Nepalese
as Sagarmatha).
The Nepal Himalaya has become a great
theatre of mountaineering activities.
There are many Himalayan peaks open for
mountaineering expeditions. In the Nepal
Himalaya, there are 240 peaks above
6000m and more than 1300 peaks of 6000m
and below.
After Nepal opened its doors to foreign
travelers in 1950, it became possible to
challenge these mountains. In the
beginning, it was simply a matter of
conquering the 8000m peaks, but
gradually climbers began to attempt
various untried routes. Today, people
have been attempting to climb the
mountains without auxiliary oxygen and
many of them have even set world records
such as Kailash tour's Late Chairman Babu Chiri
Sherpa who successfully entered the
Guinness Book of World Records 2000 for
the longest stay of 21 hours on the
summit of Mount Everest without
auxiliary oxygen and summited Everest
with an incredible speed of 16.56hrs.
Major Peak Climbing in Nepal
Chulu East Peak 5684m.
Chulu East
(6584m/21601ft) was first climbed in
1955 by a German expedition via the
North-East ridge. The peak of Chulu East
and West forms an integral part of the
Manang Himal, which are included in the
larger Damodar Himal. Chulu East lies
South-East of Chulu West and is a
comparatively lower peak.
Chulu west
(6610m/21752ft) is the higher of the two
Chulus and has a higher recorded
altitude by at least two expeditions
that have ascended it. This peak was
first climbed in 1952 by a Japanese
expedition. Ascents to this peak are
best made from a base camp in a small
valley north of Manang, situated off
The Island peak, also
known as Imja Tse (6189m/ 20305ft) was
first climbed in 1953 in preparation for
the ascent on Everest. This is a very
popular peak. Apart from being an
enjoyable climb, it has some of the most
spectacular scenery of the Khumbu
region.
Mera peak
(6654m/21831ft NMA official height)
officially the highest of Nepal's
permitted trekking peaks rises to the
south of Everest and dominates the
watershed between the heavily wooded
valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas.
The first ascent on Mera was made in May
1953 and the route taken
Phapchermo peak
(6187m/20298ft) was first climbed in
1955. This is a relatively attractive
snow peak, which lies due south of Tashi
Lapcha. It has a well defined north by
north-west ridge rising from the
crevassed glacier astride the Tashi
Lapcha. To the west of the ridge the
face forms a uniform snow slope
Pisang peak
(6091m/19981ft) has great scope for
exploration. The western flank of the
mountain, which is guarded by a hanging
glacier, offers considerable challenge.
However access to the western end of the
ridge is more problematic yes it is
guarded by huge rock slabs.
Pokhalde
(5806m/19049ft) was first climbed in
1953 from the Kongma- la. The peak
itself is the seemingly in significant
looking mountain when seen from Pheriche,
however, it dose offer interesting
scrambling on the well-defined ridge.
The northern side of the mountain has a
small hanging glacier.
Tharpu Chuli
(5500m/18045ft) is situated in the heart
of the Anapurna Sanctuary. It is an
attractive mountain, part of the
ridgeline, south from the Glacier Dome
that includes Singu Chuli and acts like
a central divider between the
semi-circles of peak including the
Sanctuary.