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PEAK CLIMBING IN NEPAL

The Himalayas are the huge mountain range stretching 3000km east to west. The Nepal portion of the Himalayas is the largest and highest, stretching about 800km and includes eight peaks that rise above 8000m including Mt. Everest (known to Nepalese as Sagarmatha).

The Nepal Himalaya has become a great theatre of mountaineering activities. There are many Himalayan peaks open for mountaineering expeditions. In the Nepal Himalaya, there are 240 peaks above 6000m and more than 1300 peaks of 6000m and below.

After Nepal opened its doors to foreign travelers in 1950, it became possible to challenge these mountains. In the beginning, it was simply a matter of conquering the 8000m peaks, but gradually climbers began to attempt various untried routes. Today, people have been attempting to climb the mountains without auxiliary oxygen and many of them have even set world records such as Kailash tour's Late Chairman Babu Chiri Sherpa who successfully entered the Guinness Book of World Records 2000 for the longest stay of 21 hours on the summit of Mount Everest without auxiliary oxygen and summited Everest with an incredible speed of 16.56hrs.

 

Major Peak Climbing in Nepal

Chulu East Peak 5684m.

 

Chulu East (6584m/21601ft) was first climbed in 1955 by a German expedition via the North-East ridge. The peak of Chulu East and West forms an integral part of the Manang Himal, which are included in the larger Damodar Himal. Chulu East lies South-East of Chulu West and is a comparatively lower peak.

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Chulu West 6610m.

 

Chulu west (6610m/21752ft) is the higher of the two Chulus and has a higher recorded altitude by at least two expeditions that have ascended it. This peak was first climbed in 1952 by a Japanese expedition. Ascents to this peak are best made from a base camp in a small valley north of Manang, situated off

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Island Peak 6189m.

 

The Island peak, also known as Imja Tse (6189m/ 20305ft) was first climbed in 1953 in preparation for the ascent on Everest. This is a very popular peak. Apart from being an enjoyable climb, it has some of the most spectacular scenery of the Khumbu region.

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Mera Peak 6654m.

 

Mera peak (6654m/21831ft NMA official height) officially the highest of Nepal's permitted trekking peaks rises to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas. The first ascent on Mera was made in May 1953 and the route taken

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Phapchermo Peak 6187m.

 

Phapchermo peak (6187m/20298ft) was first climbed in 1955. This is a relatively attractive snow peak, which lies due south of Tashi Lapcha. It has a well defined north by north-west ridge rising from the crevassed glacier astride the Tashi Lapcha. To the west of the ridge the face forms a uniform snow slope

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Pisang Peak 6091m.

 

Pisang peak (6091m/19981ft) has great scope for exploration. The western flank of the mountain, which is guarded by a hanging glacier, offers considerable challenge. However access to the western end of the ridge is more problematic yes it is guarded by huge rock slabs.

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Pokalde Peak 5806m.

 

Pokhalde (5806m/19049ft) was first climbed in 1953 from the Kongma- la. The peak itself is the seemingly in significant looking mountain when seen from Pheriche, however, it dose offer interesting scrambling on the well-defined ridge. The northern side of the mountain has a small hanging glacier.

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Tharpu Chuli 5500m.

 

Tharpu Chuli (5500m/18045ft) is situated in the heart of the Anapurna Sanctuary. It is an attractive mountain, part of the ridgeline, south from the Glacier Dome that includes Singu Chuli and acts like a central divider between the semi-circles of peak including the Sanctuary.

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